Yesterday is the kind of day one never forgets. It was beyond our greatest expectations and was simply, exhilarating.
We spent the entire day in Chobe National Park. I’ll backtrack later about how we got here, the lodge, the area – but yesterday was so spectacular it demands recording immediately.
We started the day on a boat on the Botswana side of the Chobe River. The Chobe marks the border between Botswana and Namibia. This side is Chobe National Park, the Namibian side is cattle ranches. Recently, the UN settled a border dispute between the two countries and sided with the Batswana. Thank goodness as otherwise, the islands in the middle of the river would look like the Namibian side – overgrazed. We ended the day driving along the river bank back to our lodge.
The Chobe River is a unique river. It is bi-directional depending on the season. Part of the year it flows from the Zambezi, and the other part of the year it flows towards the Zambezi. At all times of the year, it is a beacon for wildlife. There are over 150,000 elephants alone, 30 to 35 pride of lion, plenty of leopards, vast herds of zebra, Cape buffalo, giraffe, hippos, warthog, and hundreds of other species.
Because the animals are protected here they are habituated to safari boats and vehicles. We were able to get so close to the animals that we could hear them splashing in the water, grunting and groaning. Occasionally, one would indicate we were a little too close and would move a little aggressively towards us. Wisely, we’d move the boat or the truck back a bit and continue watching. The park is highly regulated and with Namibia so close, there is a military anti-poaching presence.
While we passed other vehicles, the park is not overrun like I remember Kenya and South Africa game parks. We were virtually alone on the river in the morning and mostly alone in the afternoon on the tracks. We took our time. At every turn was some animal doing something more amazing than the last.
Probably the most wonderful sight was watching a group of elephants swim across the channel to get to the grasses on the islands. Our boat literally came up alongside a group of young bulls making their way across with their trunks held high. Occasionally, they would dive completely underwater and then resurface blowing water out of their trunks. Another jumped on the back of the bull in front of him like kid brothers trying to push each other underwater.
When they made it to the other side we watched them stir up dust with their massive feet and with their trunks, spay themselves completely. The swim over must have been invigorating because all of the bulls’ penises were on full display. There is no other way to describe what an elephant penis looks like other than a fifth leg. They could stand on it if needed. I will leave it at that.
A herd of 100 plus Cape Buffalo was in the background along with hundreds and hundreds of zebras.
We pulled up next to crocodiles sunning on the banks. At times we were close enough to reach out and touch them. They could have cared less. We passed a pod of hippos on the bank. We kept our distance. Nobody here wants to get close to a hippo. Everyone has a healthy respect for them.
A flock of Marabou storks was resting on the bank. They are truly ugly but entertaining. A single Monitor lizard was walking among them. One of the storks followed behind trying to grab his tail. The lizard, clearly annoyed, keep flicking his tail away from the stork yet never ran and instead, just kept going on his merry way. Ultimately the stork got bored and found something else to do. Later we passed a number of lizards sunning themselves on the banks.
Leopards and Lions
Later, driving back along the river we came upon a tree with the remains of a leopard kill high in the “v” of two branches. A short distance on we came upon the leopard resting under a bush. Enthralled we watched him for a good hour. Every wink, ear twitch, and tail movement was recorded. Finally, he got up and walked to another bush, and buried himself deep undercover.
Everyone who doesn’t have an overnight pass must be out of the park by 6:30 PM otherwise you are fined. Guides can lose their license on the third violation. Because we had spent so long watching the leopard we needed to rush to make it out on time. As we were about to turn up off the river road we came across a pride of lions resting in the shade. People visit this park and never see lions or leopards. To see both in one day was unbelievably good luck.
Racing along the rough, sandy track to the park exit a herd of six giraffes came galloping alongside us and then crossed the track in front of us. With the brilliant red setting sun behind them, it was an unforgettable African moment.
We pulled up to the gate at 6:29 pm!
Celebrations
Yesterday, Botswana celebrated 48 years of independence. There is something special about being in a country where people are still alive who remember life before independence. It still means something here. All day, the people we met were joyful and wished each other a happy day. Arriving at our lodge, sweaty and covered in dirt from head to toe, the lodge staff were celebrating with traditional songs and dances.
My heart was full.
